By Andrew Gastelum The Derby della Madonnina is steeped in tradition, and both of its clubs have returned to prominence. But the stage where future chapters will unfold is about to change. This story was originally published on Sep. 5, 2022. It was included in a year-end list of SI’s best stories of 2022. On the eve of the Milan derby in the northwest corner of the city, a queue crawls around a tattoo parlor covered in chicken-scratch graffiti. Teeming with slow-moving Friday traffic, the street features as many kebab restaurants as pizzerias. If Milan is one of the fashion capitals of the wor…